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Gardening

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Maricopa Master Gardener Trudy Fuller with her desert willow. Photo by Ivanka Kim

By Trudy Fuller

There is nothing more humbling than gardening on the low desert of Arizona. It has been five years since we moved to Maricopa from the Southeast. Greeting us in the Maricopa backyard were waist-high weeds on steroids and struggling trees and bushes.

Things have gradually progressed since then. Two important things were responsible for a very modest turnaround. One was by chance finding a copy of the magazine called Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert: A Guide to Growing More Than 200 Low-Water-Use Plants compiled by the Arizona Municipal Water Users Association (also available online at AMWUA.org/Plants). The other was finding and enrolling in the Garden and Landscape Short Course at the Maricopa Agricultural Center here in Maricopa.

One low-water-use native tree included in the previously mentioned Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert is the heat-loving desert willow known in the botanical world as Chilopsis linearis. You may think planting this fast-growing, multi-stemmed tree means you don’t have to water at all. These trees originated on the banks of washes, creeks and streams, so there was at least occasional water available in their natural habitat.

Due to the long-standing drought here on the low desert in the city of Maricopa and Pinal County, one definitely needs to water deeply during the intense heat of summer at least once a week. In addition to having the characteristic of a sprawling, large bush, the desert willow can also be started from a cutting as a single-stemmed tree. When the single-stemmed tree is young, allow some of the lower branches to remain on the trunk for a couple of years, as this will encourage the trunk to grow thicker.

Pruning needs to be done in the winter after the leaves have dropped. Here in Maricopa, this leaf drop occurs after our first period of cold weather, usually from mid- November until after the new year. Those who maintain swimming pools need to be aware of this phenomenon. The desert willow delivers filtered shade as opposed to dense shade, so wind usually progresses easily though its branches with few, if any, dropped limbs during the monsoon season.

When given adequate water, the desert willow will bloom from April through October. On the eastern edge of our city, the most profuse blooming occurred this year in April and May. The delicate fragrance of these trumpet-shaped blooms, ranging from pink and lavender to purple and even white, attract hummingbirds, butterflies and pollinating bees. Another plus for our environment is this tree is not susceptible to pests or diseases. All it asks is full sun and a soil that drains well. However, sometimes these trees can tolerate some shade too, as can be seen on the west side of my two-story home.

In parting, note that the desert willow is not a willow at all but belongs to the family of the pink and red trumpet vine. Who knew?

520-374-6263

macmastergardener@gmail.com


This column appears in the November issue of InMaricopa.

 

 

Wende Gehrt

By Wende Gehrt

Gardening in containers, or hot pots, can be a great deal of fun and affords the gardener accessibility, opportunities for creativity, and relative ease in terms of daily chores. The challenges include lack of moisture and susceptibility to hot and cold temperatures and should be considered when determining placement of the container.

Containers are available in a variety of materials including terra-cotta, plastic, ceramic, metal, fiberglass, wood, stone and concrete. Of course, you may choose any whimsical container you desire.

Plants may grab the attention, but good-looking plants begin with healthy planting medium. A good potting mix will contain organic material and air but rarely contain any real soil. They’re available in a variety of brands and sold in pre-packaged mixes. Avoid garden soil as it’s too dense and lacks organic material. If the container is quite large or deep, crumpled plastic water bottles or bubble wrap may be used to fill space before adding the potting mix. The plant’s roots will only grow to a depth of about 12 inches, so filling a deep container with potting mix only adds to the cost and weight.

When selecting plants for hot pots, be sure to choose plants that have similar light and water requirements. Think in terms of “thriller,” “filler” and “spiller” when choosing plants.

A thriller is a tall plant placed in the back of the pot such as dracaena, yucca or lavender.

The filler is the main focal flowering plant, and chrysanthemums, salvias, nasturtiums, petunias and zinnias are all good choices.

The spiller could be a vine or creeper such as marguerite, ivy or elephant food.

With the kaleidoscope of colors available, you can choose whatever color arrangement you like. Think of the color wheel and use either contrasting colors, complementary colors or whatever appeals to you. The addition of white flowers makes the other colors “pop.” Even herbs including rosemary, basil, dill, chives and thyme can be incorporated in a container.

To attract butterflies, choose blue mist flower, lantana or desert milkweed. Hummingbirds are attracted to autumn sage, scarlet creeper and velvet honeysuckle. To attract birds, select ocotillo, hesperaloe or southwest coral bean. If you prefer cacti and succulent plants, keep them together to avoid overwatering or feeding. Succulents and cacti do need water, but only when the soil is very dry.

Watering and feeding will be determined by the type of container, variety of plants and location. You may choose to add a line to a drip irrigation system or water by hand. Fertilizer choices include granular, soluble crystals or pelleted and include the three nutrients – nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). Follow the directions on the package for application and frequency.

Container gardening in Arizona is not only fun, but also can be enjoyed year-round. Express your creativity with your container and plants.

macmastergardener@gmail.com
520-374-6263

 

Wende Gehrt is the newest member of Maricopa Master Gardeners.



This column appears in the October issue of InMaricopa.

Jerry Walp speaking to visitors in the garden at the Maricopa Agricultural Center. Submitted

By Julie Olson

Master Gardener Julie Olson

Midsummer is a great time to start planning the fall vegetable garden.

Draw the garden to scale in air-conditioned comfort. A crowed garden won’t yield or grow to potential.

Plant spacing recommendations
Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and brussels sprouts:
Rows 30 inches wide, plants spaced 20 inches apart
Leafy greens like lettuce, chard and kale: 20-inch rows with 5-6-inch plant spacing
Radishes and spinach: 20-inch rows
Peas: 2-3 inches apart if grown on a fence or trellis to provide more garden space

Selecting seed varieties is a fun part of gardening. Check the days to maturity on the packet. The desert season is shorter than normal, so quicker-maturing vegetables are better. Make copies of the seed packet information for later reference.

After drawing the garden plot and deciding what to plant, the next step is removing dead plants and debris. The soil may need amendments of fertilizer and compost if a summer garden was grown. September is a good time to start planting seeds as they like warm soil for germination. If using transplants, wait three to four weeks. Irrigation lines should also be checked and repaired. Watering problems are much easier to fix before planting.

Plants and seeds need to be protected from birds and ground squirrels. It`s very discouraging to find a row of holes where peas were planted. Birds will also eat tender new leaves and stems. A light-weight row cover or netting may be needed. Netting should be high enough to prevent birds from poking through to the plants.

Check daily for insect problems. A strong spray of water on the leaf undersides will knock off aphids. Insecticidal soaps will control many pests. Companion planting is another pest control. Onions and garlic help protect broccoli and cabbage from cabbage loopers which eat three times their weight every day.

Weeds are another garden pest that steal water and nutrients, crowd out and shade vegetables. Don`t forget to mark the rows. Plastic knives with plant names written on them make good row markers.

By mid-October radishes and other short-season crops can be harvested. Vegetables harvested at their peak are most nutritious.

Cut the first leaves of swiss chard when 4 to 6 inches, let the next ones grow 6 to 8 inches. Harvest greens when young and dark green for best flavor. Old leaves will become bitter. Pick broccoli when heads are dark blue green and compact. Cabbage should be firm, crisp and rich green in color.

Enjoy fall vegetables through January and February, then it`s time to plant for summer.

520-374-6263
MACmastergardener@gmail.com

Julie Olson is a Master Gardener and Maricopa resident.


This column appears in the August issue of InMaricopa.

 

 

Senior residents and winter visitors learn a thing or two at MAC's AgVenture Tours.

By Rita Bricker 

Rita Bricker

Let’s explore the Master Gardener program as it relates to our fair city of Maricopa.

But first some history and definitions. The Land Grant College Act of 1862 ceded land within each state to establish colleges and universities specializing in the “agricultural and mechanic” (A&M) arts. The University of Arizona is our land-grant college.

The Cooperative Extension Service is a large, informal education system to help people use research-based knowledge to improve their lives. This service is provided by a state’s land-grant university and is administered by county agents. Our Pinal County agent is Rick Gibson.

The Master Gardener program is an adjunct of the Cooperative Extension Service along with other groups such as 4-H. Our mission as Master Gardeners is to provide the public with research-based, home, horticultural information through educational programs and projects. We are all unpaid volunteers.

Our local group is fortunate to have the Maricopa Agricultural Center (affectionately known as MAC) as our home base. The MAC is a University of Arizona experiment station known for its research on cotton, small grains, alfalfa and new, specialty crops. At the MAC, our Master Gardeners maintain a demonstration garden, and we are currently planning a new orchard plot. We utilize these areas as teaching platforms to introduce local homeowners to new plants and planting techniques, as well as best practices in planning, cultivation, irrigation, and garden and tool maintenance.

Another vital service we provide is plant diagnostics. The Maricopa Master Gardeners were commissioned by our county extension agent to act as the go-to plant and insect diagnostic resource for the county in January 2014. In that capacity, we assumed responsibility for logging and resolving the plant and insect questions and issues tendered by home gardeners from all corners of Pinal County. We have a diagnostic lab and comprehensive library in our office, which is also located at the MAC.

Becoming a Pinal County Master Gardener requires some time and dedication, but it’s well worth it, not only for one’s personal knowledge but for the opportunity to share that learning with others. First, one must complete a specialized course in gardening in the low desert. The 50-hour course covers topics such as botany, soils and plant nutrition, problem diagnosis, irrigation, pest management, desert-adapted plants and vegetable gardening.

The next Garden and Landscape course will be offered in Maricopa Aug. 22–Dec.19. 

Upon course completion, Master Gardener applicants must complete a specified number of volunteer service hours to obtain full certification. Typical volunteer projects include our annual plant sale, introducing school children to outdoor gardening, staffing the plant diagnostic office, and presenting information at city-wide events. These volunteer opportunities are fun and gratifying, and they can open up a whole new network of acquaintances and contacts.

Rita Bricker is a Master Gardener in Maricopa.

520-374-6263
MACmastergardener@gmail.com


This column appears in the July issue of InMaricopa Magazine.

Hairy desert scorpion

By Scott Oliver

Scott Oliver

“Grandpa, there’s a baby lobster in your garden!”

I have lived in Maricopa for nearly six years now, and I had never encountered a scorpion in my home until last Sunday. I was up that morning before daylight. My son and his family were coming that afternoon for barbecue, and I needed to get a pork shoulder in the smoker.

Still not quite awake, my eyes still adjusting to my surroundings, I went into the laundry room and, there she was, a 2-inch bark scorpion on the wall, eye level, above the dryer. I am happy to report there was no “scorpion dance.” I don’t have major phobias when it comes to bugs and spiders, but a scorpion?

The three most commonly observed scorpions in Arizona are:

  • Desert or giant hairy scorpion (hadrurus arizonensis)
  • Striped or devil scorpion (vaejovis spinigerus)
  • Bark scorpion (centruroides sculpturatus)

Scorpions are one of the oldest animals on Earth. Their evolutionary history goes back to the Silurian era 430 million years ago. They evolved from giant scorpion-like creatures that emerged from the sea. Although they resemble crustaceans like lobsters and crayfish, scorpions actually are more closely related to ticks, mites and spiders.

Keeping scorpions out of your house begins in your yard. If you spot more than one, definitely call an exterminator. I would personally recommend calling only companies that specialize in scorpion control. Scorpions are extremely resilient and don’t respond to pesticides the way other bugs do.

After an initial treatment you can go the DIY route. There are plenty of successful, easily researched strategies available. Do remove dead branches, wood and mulch piles, debris under plants and bushes.

I calmly considered my options, kill or capture. There was a flyswatter within arm’s reach but that’s like taking a spoon to a knife fight. I slowly backed away, went into the garage and picked my 5-pound sledge hammer and returned armed and ready. Positioning myself to the side of the dryer I took a wide stance and dug in. Imagine a baseball player at home plate going through his routine. I just wanted to make solid contact. Slowly, I drew my hammer back, eyes on the target; I’m going to do this.

Scorpions are usually not aggressive unless threatened, and then look out. This trait makes killing or capturing them challenging. They move quickly when they feel threatened, or may do just the opposite and play dead. Apparently, size does matter. Surprisingly, the small, young bark scorpions are the most dangerous.

If you are stung by one, it will hurt like hell, but as with bees, it’s not life-threatening unless you suspect you are allergic or if you are infirm, in which case you should capture or kill the one that stung you and take it with you to a medical facility so the correct anti-venom can be used.

I did not smash my laundry room scorpion, saving myself a drywall repair project. Instead, I captured it in a mason jar for a show-and-tell with the grandkids that afternoon. It turned into a great teaching opportunity. Later that evening I took it to a vacant field a few blocks away and set her free. The next one might not be so lucky.


This column appears in the June issue of InMaricopa.

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Roger Lawrence. Submitted photo

By Roger Lawrence

The beautiful, elegant and fickle queen palm (Syagrus romanzoffianum): Perhaps you have one of these stately palms in your yard. No doubt you have seen them in other landscapes.

Have you ever wondered why so many look dry and yellow or why yours is so hard to keep looking nice? The answer is quite simple, but the solution not so much.

The queen palm is a tropical tree. It enjoys year-round moderate temps, lots of humidity, and nutrient- rich soil. That’s pretty much the opposite of Maricopa. Most of the queens in our area are planted near or around swimming pools or other bodies of water, so they do get some humidity from evaporation.

But our temperature swings, especially in the winter months, prove problematic, occasionally dipping to freezing. And the soil in our area is a clay loam at best, with very little organic matter.

So, what to do? The secret is in watering and feeding. The rule of thumb for watering is the same as for most trees in our landscapes: deep and infrequent. During the winter months, water once every three to four weeks to a depth of three feet. In summer months, water every seven to 10 days and to the same depth of three feet. Water takes longer to soak into our clay soil, so a slow trickle over a longer period is required.

OK, what about feeding? Our alkaline soil makes it difficult for roots to absorb nutrients like iron and nitrogen and contributes to the yellowing of fronds. If new growth looks frizzy and yellow and appears accordion-like, then a shot of manganese may be needed. Queens require more of this mineral than most palm tree fertilizers contain, so manganese spikes can add that needed nutrient.

Queen palms should be fertilized three times per year through the growing season. An easy way to remember is to fertilize on Valentine’s Day, Memorial Day and Labor Day. Just be sure to use the amount of fertilizer recommended by the product manufacturer. Another way to nourish the queen palm is to use a 3- to 4-inch layer of organic mulch around the tree. This will also help to retain moisture in the soil after watering.

Lastly, when trimming the yellow or brown fronds, cut the unsightly parts back to any green showing, leaving as much leaf as possible so photosynthesis can take place.

Roger Lawrence is a master gardener and Maricopa resident.

Contact a Master Gardener:
 520-374-6263
macmastergardener@gmail.com
Maricopa Agricultural Center Plant Diagnostic Office
Open 9 a.m. to noon Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Friday


This column appears in the May issue of InMaricopa.

 

By Al Brandenburg

Did you know that peppers have genders?

As an example, three-lobed bells are considered males and are best used for frying. Four-lobed bells are considered female and are best for stuffing and salads. Non-bells are all males.

That said, peppers are a breeze to grow. Basically, you plant them and watch them take off. But, for maximum production, a little pampering helps.

Plant peppers in a bed that receives full sun (at least six hours a day) and contains plenty of organic matter. Unless you want all hot peppers, keep hots and sweets well separated. Depending on the size of the pepper varieties planted, spacing should be 12-18 inches apart.  Most sweet peppers mature in 60-90 days; hot peppers can take up to 150 days.

Keep in mind, however, the number of days to maturity stated on the seed packet refers to the days after transplanting until the plant produces a full-sized fruit.

Prepare the soil and plant

The right site and soil will make a world of difference in how peppers do. Choose a sunny, well-drained spot where peppers haven’t grown recently. Peppers like warmth, so wait to plant until all frost danger has passed. If possible, set out your peppers on a cloudy day to help reduce stress on the plants. Set them a bit deeper than they were in their containers.

Consider staking or caging some varieties so that the stems do not break in strong winds or because of a large fruit load. After you plant the pepper seedlings, water them well. In addition, to maintain a proper balance, before transplanting, work some organic matter into the soil to enhance moisture retention.

Feed your soil

Peppers and tomatoes are heavy feeders, so they need plenty of organic food. I suggest a balanced vegetable fertilizer such as Miracle Grow or Arizona’s Best Vegetable fertilizer. Water well after feeding.

Warning: Don’t over-fertilize. This tends to make the pepper plants develop lush foliage at the expense of fruit production. If you work 5-10-10 fertilizer into the soil prior to transplanting, that’s probably sufficient.

Water & Mulch

Throughout the growing season, make sure your pepper plants receive adequate watering. Deep watering every three to four days is better than a short water every day. Check the peppers often during periods of extreme heat and drought. The trick is to maintain adequate water without drowning a plant or drying it out.

You can use mulch to prevent excessive evaporation from the soil during the dry summer months.

Do not overwater. Peppers are thirsty plants. They need a moderate supply of water from the moment they sprout until the end of the season. However, peppers won’t tolerate a saturated soil that waterlogs their roots. The soil must drain well yet hold enough moisture to keep the plants in production.

Pinch off first flowers and use companion plants

As difficult as it might be for you (and me), pinch off any early blossoms that appear on pepper plants. This won’t harm the plants. It helps them direct their energy into growing and results in lots of large fruits later in the season instead of just a few small fruits early on. Spray Neem Oil on the underside of the leaves to help control our favorite pests, white flies. It’s claimed that growing basil next to peppers boosts their flavor and may help to repel some common garden pests. Plus, you get pesto!

Harvest

You can harvest the peppers at their immature green or purple stage, but the flavor will be sweeter if you wait for them to turn their mature color — usually red, but sometimes golden yellow or orange. Italian fryers and jalapeños are possible exceptions as many people prefer the flavor of these peppers when they are full size but still green. To harvest the peppers, cut them off with hand pruners. Pulling them off by hand can damage the plant. Now get ready to enjoy your stuffed peppers as well as sausage, onion and pepper sandwiches…. yummy!

Al Brandenburg is a Master Gardener and Maricopa resident.


This column appears in the April issue of InMaricopa.

Photo by Joaquim Alves Gaspar

By Rita Bricker

MAC MASTER GARDENERS PLANT SALE
March 3, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.
Maricopa Agricultural Center, 37860 W. Smith-Enke Road
520-374-6263

 

Before you smash, spray, or otherwise annihilate that insect in your garden, make sure it is not one of the good guys. There are many insects that can eliminate other destructive pests for us. They are called “beneficial” insects and are of two types, either predators or parasites.

Beneficial predators feed on the insect pest itself. Lady beetles (ladybugs), lacewing larvae, and assassin bugs are examples of predator insects. The praying mantis is another well-known predator in our gardens.

The lady beetle is one of the most famous of the predator insects. These beetles have colorful red, orange, or sometimes yellow front wings speckled with black markings. The adults lay clusters of orange eggs on plants near groups of aphids. After hatching, tiny black and orange larvae feed on aphids in great numbers.

The delicate lacewing is another champion predator insect. The adult lacewings are pale green or light brown insects about a half-inch in size. Their delicate appearance comes from the many veins in their wings, giving them the netted or lacy appearance. The adults feed on nectar and are not predatory themselves, but their larval offspring are. Lacewings lay their pale green eggs on the underside of leaves. The lacewing larvae are tiny and their shape resembles an alligator with large jaws for sucking the juices from small prey and other insect eggs. They consume large numbers of aphids and other insect pests and insect eggs of all kinds.

The praying mantis is perhaps the best-known predator insect. It can be seen sitting on plants or on a wall under a light waiting patiently for another insect to cross its path; then it captures its victim with its spiny front legs and chomps down. Perhaps you have seen a praying mantis egg case about an inch long made of a brownish-gray papery material with numerous compartments glued to a twig or branch. The praying mantis young emerge in the spring looking like miniature versions of their parents.

The eponymous assassin bugs and ambush bugs have their own brand of predatory treachery. Other predatory insects include damsel bugs, big-eyed bugs, minute pirate bugs, syrphid flies, wasps, and dragonflies.

Beneficial parasitic insects differ in their tactics. Typically, they lay their eggs on or within the bodies of their prey. After hatching, the young larvae use the host insect for food. There are parasitic wasps and flies in this category.

One unusual example of a parasitic insect is the eucharitid wasp which lays its eggs in trees. As worker ants search for aphids and other food in the leaves, the parasite larva attaches itself to an ant, hitching a ride back to the ant nest. Once there, the parasite drops off the transport ant and attaches itself to an ant larva to feed.

Isn’t nature fascinating! We owe a lot to these beneficial insects. Let’s protect and encourage them.

Contact a Pinal County Master Gardener at (520) 374-6263 or macmastergardener@gmail.com

The Master Gardeners' Plant Sale is scheduled for March 3 at MAC.

By Rita Bricker

With the delightful, moderate weather we are experiencing this winter, I can imagine many of you are eager to get your vegetable gardens growing. The average last frost date in our neck of the woods is Feb. 6, and the growing season before the punishing heat sets in is relatively short, so now is a great time to exercise your green thumb.

IF YOU GO
What: Master Gardener Plant Sale
When: March 3, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.
Where: Maricopa Agricultural Center, 37860 W. Smith-Enke Road
Info: 520-374-6263

Soil preparation is a key step to success in our area with its typically alkaline and often compacted soils. Around Maricopa, we very often deal with clay soil, which requires substantial amendment with compost and sometimes gypsum or even sulfur to get the right mix for optimal planting. If you have a previously used garden plot or are starting fresh, now is the time to dig in about a foot deep, turn the soil over, add those amendments and incorporate them throughout the loosened soil.

Next, inspect your watering system to ensure it is working properly. If it isn’t, make any needed repairs now before watering becomes critical.

Naturally, you can plant from seed if you are so inclined. Basil, beets, cucumbers, melons, green onions, radishes and squash can all be started from seed this time of year. You will need to follow the directions on the seed packets concerning planting depth and spacing. However, let me suggest an even better alternative to get your garden underway.

On Saturday, March 3, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., the local Master Gardeners are holding their popular Spring Plant Sale at the Maricopa Agricultural Center. About 2,000 plants will be available for purchase. Plants were started in a greenhouse earlier in the year. There will be 20 kinds of tomatoes, including six varieties of cherry tomatoes, 10 varieties of peppers, two kinds of eggplant, three kinds of summer squash, four melon varieties, four kinds of cucumbers, tomatillos and a variety of herbs.

We will also have flowers, shrubs, cactus and agaves, and more for purchase. And the plants we offer are specifically grown for our locale to help you succeed in your gardening efforts.


This column appears in the February issue of InMaricopa. A typographical error in the phone number has been corrected.

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Submtitted photo

By Al Brandenburg

Coming from upstate New York, I’ve always had several varieties of tomatoes and peppers in my garden. For those of you who have tasted a freshly grown tomato, you know that store-bought tomatoes don’t even begin to compare in taste or texture.

So, maybe you have decided to try growing tomatoes and peppers this year. If so, I would like to give you some tips that may help you grow wonderful tomatoes as well as delicious sweet or hot peppers. So, let’s get started:

Determine the right time to plant. If you are growing from seed, the first week in January is ideal as both tomatoes and peppers require at least 6 to 8 weeks from sowing seed in pots to planting. Tomato seeds should be started indoors and then transplanted to your beds once they have a few leaves and an established root system. Tomato seeds need a constant soil temperature of at least 60 degrees, and preferably 80 degrees, to germinate. I put my started plants in the ground the last week in February (assuming no danger of frost) or the first week in March.

Submitted photo

Planting seeds indoors. You will need a good light source. I use fluorescent 4-foot lamps with GE grow lights (not regular lamps) hanging from chains so I can adjust the height as the seedlings grow. Soilless potting mix (available at any garden center) is the medium of choice. Cell packs are OK for starting seeds, but a better idea is to use a small pot at least 3 or 4 inches tall and wide so the seedlings can grow to a healthy size without their roots being constricted. Plant two seeds in each pot to assure germination success. A heat mat and controller will greatly help warm the soil as well as accelerate the growth process. Be careful not to overwater as you will risk dampening and killing the seedling.

Selecting seeds and plants. Tomatoes are classified as either Determinate types (puts out fruit just once) and Indeterminate types (puts out fruit for the entire growing season). If you decide to buy ready-to-plant vegetables in your garden, keep in mind the garden centers get many varieties from their vendors that don’t necessarily grow well here. As an alternative, on the first Saturday in March each year the local Master Gardener group has a plant sale at the Maricopa Agricultural Center. They offer varieties that have proven to do well here.

If you decide to plant from seed, many of the seed catalog houses offer a wide spectrum of regular and heirloom seed varieties. For regular tomatoes, I have had great success with Super Sioux, Black from Tula (both draught and heat tolerant), Cherokee Purple, Paul Robeson and Celebrity. For cherry tomatoes, I recommend Sweet Million and Sun Gold. San Marzano and Roma are great sauce varieties. For sweet peppers, North Star (bell) and Italia do very well here. For hot peppers, Joe E. Parker or any of the chiles and serranos will do well.

Select the ideal location for planting in the soil. Tomatoes and peppers require at least 6 hours of sunlight a day. Make sure you plant them in a location that gets shade in the afternoon, so when the weather heats up and the sun is higher in the sky, your plants will survive much better. Plant tomatoes and peppers at least one foot apart and deep enough for the soil to be just above the very bottom leaves. Make sure the hole is four times wider than your root ball. About the first week in May, place shade cloth over your tomatoes to keep the plants from stressing. You can build a framework out of wood or PVC pipe to create a proper frame for the cloth.

Use a good support and water regularly. Most tomatoes require staking. You can use wooden stakes, a trellis, or any other means of support. Some varieties of peppers grow very tall, so some support will help the branches from sagging. Water every other day in the spring and once a day for an hour when it starts to get hot. Do not overwater; it is the No. 1 reason for plant failure here in the desert. To help keep those pesky white flies off your plants use NEEM oil (readily available in garden stores) mixed with some safe-to-use insecticide. Spray under the leaves once a week. You should have tomatoes and peppers by mid-April, so get ready to feast on your favorite sandwiches and sauces.

 

520-374-6263

MacMasterGardener@gmail.com

 

Al Brandenburg is a Master Gardener and Maricopa resident.


This column appears in the January issue of InMaricopa.

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Winter garden herbs. Submitted photo

By Tina Frank

Tina Frank

Growing up in a cold state, our family always thought citrus was the only produce that comes from Arizona gardening. Being a resident to Arizona now for 30-plus years has changed my perspective dramatically. Arizona, I believe, is one of the best places to have a winter garden.

For our family, a winter garden is a great way to enjoy the outdoors and spend time together. We plan through the warm months, so as soon as the weather changes we can get things rolling. Because we still get down to freezing in the winter, we like to plant early. The earlier you plant, the longer your harvest season is. Our ideal planting window for our winter garden is mid- to late-September. But it’s not too late if you want to plant right now. You can still enjoy your veggies until the heat hits again in the springtime.

  1. Preparing the soil

If you had a summer garden, then turning the soil and pulling out anything undesirable is the first step. We pull out things like perennial weeds and grasses. We will then follow up with compost. You can purchase compost or make it yourself with your leftover veggie pieces.

If you are just preparing your space for the first time I recommend you put some manure and fertilizer in your garden space a couple of weeks before planting. Work it into the soil with a shovel and/or rake, water it down, and let it sit. The day you plant you will want the soil to be moist. You can add a little more fertilizer or compost, if needed, at this time.

  1. Choosing vegetables

Now the fun part begins. Focus on root plants and greens. The fastest way to get things producing is to purchase seedlings and plant them. If you start early, seeds can also be a great option. A seed catalogue gives you a bigger variety of options. Our family does a little of both.

I find if you start planting with your root vegetables first (carrots, beets, turnips) and then your greens of choice, you will have the best results. The greens propagate better in cooler weather, so I usually plant my root vegetables a few weeks ahead of my greens. Some of our favorite greens are swiss chard, mustard greens, spinach and lots of varieties of kale, cabbage and lettuce.

Something else we like to grow in winter are fresh herbs. Herbs are relatively easy to grow, and you don’t have to spend a lot of time maintaining them. They also smell great. Most herbs prefer full access to the sun, good air circulation and well-drained soil. You can plant them in a small plot outside or put them in a flower pot. They’re versatile plants that will add some flavor to your meals. Some even have medicinal uses. Some of the herbs we enjoy are mint, dill, cilantro, basil and oregano.

  1. After planting

Once your seeds and plants are in, I recommend a layer of mulch. You can use any kind you like. We put about ½ to 1 inch of mulch in our bays or pots to help keep things moist. This allow us to water less often. We do have a drip system in our planting plots, but we water our pots by hand.

Enjoy your winter garden.

 

Tina Frank is a resident of Rancho El Dorado and a master gardener.



This column appears in the December issue of InMaricopa.

Submitted photo

By Al Brandenburg

Al Brandenburg

I’m originally from upstate New York and have been vegetable gardening most of my life. One of the best crops in my garden were pole beans, which were prolific and provided some great meals. Moving to Arizona 10 years ago and becoming a Master Gardener required me to rethink what, when and how to plant my veggies based on the hot and dry climate conditions we experience here.

  1. Determine the right time to plant. Like most beans, pole beans get planted directly outside in spring when there is no longer a risk of frost. Pole beans can be planted here when the soil temperature reaches at least 60 F. In Arizona, unless we get a late frost, this is usually the first week of March. Surprisingly, you can also plant in early fall and get a second crop right up to first frost.
  2. Select the ideal location. Pole beans need full sun to grow properly and produce the highest yields, so choose a garden bed that gets lots of exposure throughout the day. Good companion plants for pole beans are carrots, eggplant and peas. Six hours of sun each day is more than sufficient.
  3. Build a good support. Because pole beans grow tall, they need a support to grow on. It’s easiest to build the support before planting, and this will prevent damage to the beans and roots. I use half-inch diameter PVC pipe and construct my poles in a teepee shape with about a foot and a half of distance separating each pole at the bottom. I use rope or elastic ties to connect the poles near the top.
  4. Inoculate the beans. Pole beans are a type of legume, and like most legumes, they require plenty of nitrogen in the soil to thrive. The easiest way to make sure they have this is by inoculating the beans with nitrogen-fixing bacteria before planting. You can order a can of this powder online or purchase it at your local garden/home supply store. The trick is to soak your bean seeds in warm water for about 20 minutes, then drain the water and place the beans on a damp towel. Sprinkle them with the inoculant powder just before planting.
  5. Submitted photo

    Plant the beans. Poke six 1-inch deep holes around each pole, and place one bean in each hole. Cover the beans loosely with soil. Pat down softly and water gently. I have found the two best bean varieties that do well here are stringless blue lake S-7 and rattlesnake. Both are available through Vermont Bean Seed Company out of Wisconsin. Warning: Do not plant in wet soil.

  6. Water regularly. During active growing periods like sprouting and producing pods, the beans will need plenty of water to grow. Keep the soil evenly moist when you first plant the beans and when they start developing pods. Make sure they get about an inch of water every other day, initially. As it starts heating up you will want to increase the watering frequency. At that point I usually water daily using an irrigation system on a timer but you can just use a hose if you choose. A caution here is to water gently and try to not get the tops of the leaves wet. Harvest the beans when they are about 5 to 6 inches long.

Now…sit back, say a little prayer to the garden gods, and prepare to enjoy your first crop of delicious pole beans in about 5 to 6 weeks.

Albert Brandenburg is a Master Gardener and a resident of Maricopa.


This column appears in the November issue of InMaricopa.

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By Barb Christensen

Master Gardener Barb Christensen

Are snakes friend or foe in the garden? You decide for yourself.

These legless creatures live almost everywhere in Arizona. Snakes primarily live in the open desert or mountainous areas away from people, but what happens when we push our city boundaries closer toward outlying desert areas?

Western diamondback and Mojave rattlesnakes are the most common of the venomous variety in our area, but they are almost never deadly to humans if we can get treatment right away. In fact, less than 1 percent of rattlesnake bites results in death in our state, according to the Arizona Poison Center. For the most part, all snakes just want to be left alone to bask in the sun or to hibernate. However, it is best not to make assumptions about the benevolence of any snake.

Many non-poisonous snakes such as the California kingsnake, Sonoran gopher snake, desert night snake, whip snake, coachwhip snake, the tiny ground snake and various kinds of garter snakes also inhabit our environs. Some of these non-venomous snakes even prey on rattlesnakes. As an example, by turning a rattlesnake into its own tasty meal, the common kingsnake helps to control the venomous snake population.

All snakes can help in our gardens by eliminating unwanted rodents that cause havoc and eat our produce. Mice, rats and gophers are known to carry deadly diseases and viruses. Hantavirus, salmonella, rat bite fever, typhus, plague and Lyme disease are easily transmitted by these rodent pests. If left undiagnosed, any one of these diseases or viruses can be fatal, especially for children.

Snakes aren’t for everyone, obviously, and there are measures you can take to protect yourself and your property. A good line of defense is a snake fence around any open areas. Also, make sure to trim around the bottom of your bushes 1-2 feet. Pick up any dead branches, leaves, trash or other debris from the yard or porch, eliminating places for snakes to hide. Fill in gopher holes, as snakes like to move into vacant holes to get out of the heat or to hibernate.

Even if you decide snakes are beneficial and your friend, you may choose to lessen the chances of encountering one by building raised garden beds rather than in-ground beds. And, if you find an unwanted creepy-crawly in your garden, please do not attempt to remove it yourself. Instead, phone a professional. They will remove the snake, placing it back into its natural habitat.

No matter what you decide about the benefits or dangers of snakes, enjoy your garden and be happy!

Contact a Master Gardener at Maricopa Agricultural Center at 520-374-6263 or macmastergardener@gmail.com. Our diagnostic office at the MAC is open Monday–Friday from 9 a.m. to noon to assist you with your gardening issues.

Barb Christensen is a Master Gardener and a resident of Maricopa.


This column appears in the October issue of InMaricopa.

Submitted photo

By Melanie Warthman

Melanie Warthman. Photo by Mason Callejas

Last fall, students from Janis Bellavance’s class at Maricopa Wells Middle School decided to explore the world of vegetable gardening. Little did they know how much growth would really take place.

With guidance from a Maricopa Master Gardener and a 40-by-40-by-26-inch wooden crate, stabilized and delivered by Bellavance’s husband Brian, the class set out to plant their first-ever, raised-bed garden.

The crate was placed outside the classroom in an area allowing the most exposure to sunlight. Math immediately came into play as students determined how much soil was needed. They took measurements, calculated volume and decided to fill part of the box with empty plastic bottles and the remaining space with five bags of garden soil, roughly 18 inches deep. No irrigation lines were added as students did the watering.

The class worked together to plan and plant the bed. The square-foot method was followed using string and wooden skewers to mark off nine 12-by-12-inch squares. It allowed them to utilize space wisely and experience as many vegetables as possible.

Students learned there are two growing seasons – spring and fall – and researched what would do best in the fall. Leafy and root vegetables like the cooler temperatures and shorter growing season.

After much discussion and voting, into the garden went half-long and rainbow carrots, spinach, lettuce, radishes and multi-colored beets. Planting them was tricky because they only go in as deep as the diameter of the seed. Excited middle schoolers had a hard time with that concept but quickly understood what it meant when many seeds failed to germinate because they were planted too deep.

Broccoli was planted from a six-pack purchased from the garden center. One student insisted on green beans, though chances for success, when planted in fall, were slim. Pairs of students checked the garden daily, using a moisture meter to determine when to water, noting observations in a journal.

Submitted photo

Their perseverance and hard work produced a wonderful variety of fall veggies. Even the beans wintered over, due to the protection of the broccoli plants and covering the box when cold nighttime temps were expected. Succession planting allowed them to enjoy lettuce and carrots well into the spring when tomatoes and peppers were added to the garden.

Many students had never tasted these vegetables, let alone seen them grow.

Growth in the garden and the students was amazing. Those quiet in the classroom slowly blossomed, like their plants, as they worked outdoors in small groups. According to Mrs. Bellavance, “This gardening project was fun, purposeful and a real life-learning experience for my students. It was exciting to see their confidence and gardening skills grow.”

The class agreed it was a lot of work but well worth it for the yummy food harvested. As for the current school year… here we grow again!

Melanie Warthman is a member of Maricopa Master Gardeners.

MACMasterGardener@gmail.com


This column appears in the September issue of InMaricopa.

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Ideally, grafting can extend the growing season for tomatoes in Arizona. Photo by Carol Howerton

By Carol Howerton

Carol Howerton. Submitted photo

Grafted tomato plants are all the rage these days. They promise increased disease resistance and hardier, more vigorous plants with bigger and better yields. Sounds great, right? But these plants are pricey, ranging from $8-$20 per plant. Are they worth the extra cost for the home gardener in our desert environment?

For the past three years, the Master Gardeners at the Maricopa Agricultural Center have been grafting and growing tomatoes to find the answer to this question. We chose heirloom varieties that everyone loves, like Brandywine and Cherokee Purple because they are not known to do well in our hot climate. Could we find a way through grafting to extend the growing season and harvest more of these wonderful tomatoes? And could we develop a system that would be effective and low-cost so anyone can graft tomatoes at home?

The rootstock varieties chosen were drought-tolerant and vigorous, but any hardy tomato variety can be used such as the Super Sweet 100 Cherry or Sweet Million. Once the desired tomato variety (called the scion) was grafted on to the rootstock, they were put into a healing chamber for 7-10 days.

The chamber can be any enclosure that blocks or limits light and allows for humid conditions. We used Styrofoam ice chests, but plastic storage bins covered with towels also work well. The ideal temperature inside the healing chamber is 80-85 degrees and, to keep the humidity in the 90-95 percent range, we misted the plants daily using spray bottles.

The goal of the healing chamber is to create a low-stress environment where the scion and rootstock can fuse and grow together as one plant. No light is let in for the first two days. Gradually light is increased to bring the plants back to normal growing conditions.

Many of the grafted plants do not survive for a variety of reasons. Genetic incompatibilities, mismatched stem size of the rootstock and scion or the healing environment itself are a few of the reasons for graft failures. No one will have a 100 percent success rate.

When transplanting a grafted plant into your garden, be sure to have the graft union above the soil line or the rootstock can regrow and take over your garden. You will see the graft line as a scar at the graft point.

Grafting is exciting and fun, not difficult and, with the right supplies, pretty inexpensive to do at home. The problems here in Maricopa and Pinal County are more about disease spread by insects than soil-borne diseases and our hot dry climate. We planted grafted and non-grafted varieties in our Demonstration Garden and in home test gardens. To answer our question of whether it is worth doing yourself or paying higher prices for grafted plants, I will leave that up to you to decide. We did not see any noticeable increase in production or increase in the growing season.

Carol Howerton is a member of Maricopa Master Gardeners.


This column appears in the August issue of InMaricopa.

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Photo by Ron Bernier

By Ron Bernier

Ron Bernier

The good news in the low desert of Arizona is that there are two growing seasons. That means you can grow a wide variety of vegetables during the course of the year. The bad news is the growing seasons are short, and we have to plan to get the most production from our home gardens in this short amount of time.

We are currently in the warm growing season. The season ends when the temperatures get too high for plants to produce viable pollen and the pollinators (mostly bees) are less active.

Warm season plants are typically those that have edible fruits – corn, cucumber, eggplant, tomatoes, melons, squash, peppers, pumpkins, jicama and okra. For a detailed vegetable planting schedule for Maricopa, visit the Master Gardeners’ page on the University of Arizona web site.

You can make the warm growing season longer by following these tips:

TIPS

It is not early to start thinking about what you want to plant for the cool season. Cool season plants typically have edible leaves, stems and roots. Examples include beets, cabbage, broccoli, asparagus, carrots, lettuce, mustard, parsley, radish, turnips and peas. The cool season runs from August, when temperatures start to fall, and runs until the first frost. You can start planting seeds in August while the ground is still warm enough to encourage germination. Transplants usually go in starting in September. You will be able to harvest until the first frost. Use the Vegetable Planting Schedule mentioned above to help select plants and timing for your own garden.

  1. When possible, plant varieties that can be started from transplants. Plants that are started indoors from seed or in a greenhouse can give you a great head start on days to harvest.
  2. Monitor your plants daily for heat stress. Plants show stress by leaves withering and stunted growth. Use a moisture meter daily to ensure your plants have the right amount of water as the days grow longer and hotter. Adjust watering durations as required.
  3. Make sure your plants have sufficient nutrients available. Many vegetable plants are heavy feeders and will require additional applications of fertilizer during the growing season. Follow the recommendations on the package when applying fertilizer. Remember that as you increase the amount of water required in the hot months, you will also have to shorten the time between feedings as water will leach nutrients from the planting bed.
  4. Use shade cloth to protect plants from overheating and sunburn. Install shade cloth to protect plants from both mid- and late-day sun (west side of garden). Shade cloth comes in varying degrees of sunlight filtering. Use cloth that offers 60-70 percent protection. Don’t completely block the sun as this will really slow down growth and production.

 

Ron Bernier is a Master Gardener and a resident of Maricopa.

Extension.Arizona.edu/master-gardeners


This column appears in the July issue of InMaricopa

By Rita Bricker

Rita Bricker

Now is the time of the year when many of the fruits and vegetables growing in our yards are starting to ripen. There is nothing tastier than a fresh tomato picked right off the vine or a juicy peach just plucked from your backyard tree. But how do you know when your homegrown food is ready to harvest?  Let’s find out!

Apples – The fruit is ready when it can be easily separated from the tree.
Beans (Snap) – For best flavor pick when pods are thinner than a pencil and seeds are tender but not fully formed.
Cantaloupe – The rind should be tan, not green, between the netting. The melon will readily release from the plant when you see a crack around the base of the fruit stem.
Corn (Sweet) – Harvest when silk tips are brown and ears feel firm. Pierce a kernel with your fingernail; if the juice is milky, the ear is ready to pick.
Cucumber – For pickling, sweets can be harvested when 1½ to 2 inches long and dills when 3 to 4 inches long. For fresh slicing cukes, pick when 7 to 9 inches long and bright, dark green in color.
Eggplant – These are ready when the fruit is firm and bright in color. Cut with 1 inch of the stem attached.
Grapes – The best indicators of ripeness are color and taste. Grapes must completely ripen on the vine to achieve maximum sweetness before picking them.
Peaches, Nectarines – These should be allowed to ripen fully on the tree. When the skin of the fruit is the expected color and the fruit easily separates from the stem, it’s ready.
Pears – Pears are ready to pick when the green color lightens and the stem parts easily from the spur, but they should still be hard. Pears ripen best off the tree. They are ready to eat when the stem end of the fruit yields slightly to pressure.
Peppers – Green bells will be firm to the touch when ready. Sweet peppers will turn from green to red, yellow, orange, chocolate brown or purple when they are ripe. For best flavor, hot peppers should be allowed to ripen fully on the plant before harvesting.
Summer Squash – The best flavor and texture for zucchini are obtained when they are harvested at about 4-8 inches long and about 1½ inches in diameter. Scallops are best enjoyed when they are about 3-4 inches in size when picked.
Tomatoes – Harvest these when they have fully changed color to red with the slightest touch of softness. However, they will continue to ripen after picking if they are harvested when still firm.
Watermelon – These lovelies are ready to pick when the curly tendrils are dry and brown and the skin of the fruit is no longer shiny, but dull. The bottom of the fruit (resting on the soil) will change from light green to cream or yellow when ripe.
Did you know most vegetables should be harvested early in the morning when their water content is highest? Corn, however, should be picked later in the afternoon when the sugar content is at its peak.
Watch for the ripening treasures in your garden. Harvest them, clean them, store them properly (a topic for another time), and enjoy them at their best.

Rita Bricker is co-coordinator of the Master Gardeners in Maricopa. She supervises the staff and activities of the Pinal County Master Gardener diagnostic office in the Maricopa Agricultural Center.


This column appears in the June issue of InMaricopa.

By Rita Bricker

Rita Bricker
Do you yearn to dig in the dirt and grow your own vegetables or flowers, but fear that the gardening gene has skipped a generation in your family?
There is a way for you to accomplish your gardening dreams, and it is simple : Container gardening. Virtually anything can be grown in pots or other containers both conventional and non-conventional in form. In these days of smaller and smaller residential yards, container gardening may make even more sense for you.
The key ingredients for any successful gardening effort are good soil, proper watering, adequate nutrients and suitable light. With container gardening, you can control all of these.
SOIL
Our alkaline southwest soil need not be a concern when you grow your plants in containers. Just fill those containers with the appropriate potting mixture that can be purchased from your nearby garden center. There are specialty potting blends available for cactus and succulents, palm trees, roses and citrus, as well as general purpose soil for flowers and vegetables.
Many of these potting mixtures contain moisture-retaining components like perlite or vermiculite. Even so, it is common for containerized plants to require more frequent watering than comparable plants in the ground, as the soil in pots tends to dry out quicker.
WATER
A moisture meter will tell you when your container plants need watering. Mulch on the surface of the soil will conserve moisture. Deep, slow watering is preferred, but correct watering requires good drainage so roots do not rot from excess moisture. Be sure pots or other containers have at least one good drainage hole in the bottom.

Gardening Tips
With temperatures climbing near the century mark, it is time to adjust your watering schedule. Keep the watering interval the same, but extend the duration of each watering application.

NUTRIENTS
In addition to more frequent watering, containerized plants will likely require more frequent feeding as well. Why? Because nutrients present in the soil are leached out with watering. As with potting soils, there are fertilizers blended specially for different types of plants, as well as good all-purpose fertilizers available to you. Just be sure to follow package directions for feeding plants in containers; they generally require less food per application to offset more frequent feeding.
LIGHT
The final consideration for container gardening is sunlight and weather. With the portability of containers, plants can be moved into or out of the sun as needed and can be more easily protected from harsh winds. For large containers, a “pot trolley” on wheels makes container mobility very easy. And the ability to thwart some of the worst effects of climate with portable plants may allow you to grow something more challenging than you might have thought possible.
Rita Bricker is co-coordinator of the Master Gardeners in Maricopa. She supervises the staff and activities of the Pinal County Master Gardener diagnostic office in the Maricopa Agricultural Center.

This column appears in the May issue of InMaricopa.

By Betty Beeman

TIPS FOR APRIL
Plant basil, black-eyed peas, sweet corn, popcorn, cucumbers, eggplant, jicama, melons, okra, peppers, pumpkins, squash, sunflowers and tomato transplants.

Due to the number of calls regarding citrus, I have decided to try and answer some of your questions relating to selection, planting, fertilizing, pruning and watering.

Betty Beeman
Betty Beeman

Citrus can be planted year-around but the best months are March, April and October. The smaller the tree, the easier it is to plant and the less risk you will have of transplant shock problems. Small trees mean 15 gallon containers or smaller.

Dig a hole twice the diameter of your container and the same depth. Digging down lower to soften the soil is not recommended. The ideal depth of the hole is where the soil level on the trunk is the same or slightly lower as it is in the container. Having the soil level higher on the tree trunk is a disease risk.

Citrus do best if they are heavily watered and then given time to dry out between watering. Frequency varies, depending on your local soil. Rocky or sandy soil will need to be watered more often than those in soil that has a lot of clay. Typically, trees will need to be watered every one to two weeks in the summer and every three to four weeks in the winter.

The most common problems such as leaf curl, leaf discoloration, root rot and split fruit are usually related to overwatering. Before determining your personal watering schedule, try digging down a few inches, inserting a soil moisture meter or inserting a screwdriver in the soil to test for moisture.

Watering your trees for a few minutes every few days is not acceptable. It causes salt buildup in the soil and is an ideal environment for root diseases. It is best to water at the canopy edge and one foot beyond. This is where the roots’ growing tips are absorbing water and nutrients. Use slow deep applications of water to help leach or push salt build-up below the root zone to the bottom of the wet soil. Ideally water needs to soak down at least two feet into the soil.

Citrus should be fertilized in February, May and early October. Newly planted trees usually do not need fertilizer for the first year. The best fertilizer is one that says it is for citrus trees right on the bag. Read and follow the instructions. It is best not to fertilize after October because it encourages the tree to start new growth during the winter when there is danger of frost.

Pruning citrus is completely unnecessary. Trees will grow best if they aren’t pruned and are allowed to grow as big bushes with branches almost to the ground. If you want to trim trees for appearance or remove broken branches, make sure your pruning doesn’t leave the trunk or major branches exposed to direct sunlight.

Citrus will sunburn. That’s why you see trunks of citrus trees painted white. The white paint acts as sun protection for trunks that are directly exposed to the sun. You may have to set up a shade cloth to protect new trees from the heat the first year.

Keep in mind that a new tree isn’t producing fruit during the first few years. If it does, you should remove most fruit from young, newly planted trees to encourage root development. If your older tree drops some fruit, don’t worry, it’s adjusting to heat and dry wind this time of year.

Reach out to a local Master Gardner
520-374-6263 M–F 9 a.m.-noon
MACMasterGardener@gmail.com
MAC-Pinal-MasterGardemer.org


This column appears in the April issue of InMaricopa.

Submitted photo

By Betty Beeman

Betty Beeman
Betty Beeman

According to the National Gardening Association, tomatoes are the most popular vegetable among backyard gardeners.

According to a 2014 survey, one in three American households has a vegetable garden and nearly 9 in 10 of those gardens include tomatoes. Nothing tastes as good as a ripe, home-grown tomato.

There are thousands of tomato varieties, but all fall into a few broad categories:

1. Cherry tomatoes, such as Sun Gold, or Sweet Millions, have a sweet-tart tomato flavor and are great for salads and snacking on whole. Because the fruit is small, these are the first to mature.

2. Sauce tomatoes, such as Opalka, San Marzano or Grandma Mary’s Paste, have a rich flavor and much lower water content than other varieties. They are the best ones for spaghetti sauce.

3. Beefsteak tomatoes, such as Cherokee Chocolate, Brandywine or Homestead, have the biggest fruit and the greatest range of flavor and form. They are commonly sliced for sandwiches or cut up and added to salads, though the best varieties can be eaten like an apple.

MARCH TIPS: Plant seeds now for beets, carrots, sweet corn, cucumbers, cantaloupe, watermelon, green onions, spinach and sunflowers.

There are also many all-purpose tomato varieties that have traits from each category. Most of the round tennis ball-size tomatoes at the supermarket would be classed as all-purpose. These are usually modern hybrids that rarely match the complex flavor – and diverse appearances – of heirloom tomatoes.

Tomatoes grow best in moist soil and when the temperatures remain steadily in the 70 to 80 degree range. Our spring season is short, 60 to70 days for the optimal temperatures between 50 to 90 degrees.

Consider mixing peat moss into the soil to improve drainage. Prepare soil by digging down two feet. The hole needs to be deep enough that you can plant your transplant where only the top quarter of the plant will be sticking out of the ground.

Carefully take transplants out of pots and try not to disturb the roots during the transplanting process.

Mix native soil with equal amounts of peat or potting soil. Place a scoop of compost in the bottom of the hole. This will give your plant an extra boost and keep the plant from going into shock from transplanting. Fill in with garden mix and native soil, pat soil gently around tomato to firm. Water thoroughly.

To avoid the dreaded blossom end rot, be sure to keep the soil consistently moist and avoid letting the soil dry out. As the temperatures heat you should consider using a shade cloth over tomatoes.

Tomatoes are heavy feeders. Use Starter solution for transplants. Side dress 1-2 weeks before the first tomatoes ripen with 1½ ounces 33-0-0 per 10 foot row. Side dress again two weeks after the first ripe tomato with a balanced fertilizer such as 5-10-5. Repeat one month later.

Check out YouTube “Growing a Tomato Plant in the Desert” also “Desert Gardening with Carol Stuttard” (Master Gardener from Scottsdale) for more information.

Questions?
Contact a Master Gardener volunteer
520-374-6263
MACMasterGardener@gmail.com
MAC-Pinal-MasterGardener.org


This column appears in the March issue of InMaricopa.

Submitted photo

By Betty Beeman

Betty Beeman
Betty Beeman

Eucalyptus was brought to America in the mid 1800s from Australia. Approximately 900 species of eucalyptus trees exist.

These quick-growing trees have been cultivated around the world for their attractive peeling bark and fragrant foliage. Sizes range from short bushy varieties (maliee types) to soaring giants. They are heat- and frost-tolerant, use little water and generally live from 50 to over 100 years.

They all share the pungent aroma for which their leaves are famous, as well as exfoliating bark. The oil that comes from the eucalyptus is used as an antiseptic, as an ingredient in cosmetics, as a flavoring in dental preparations and in industrial solvents.

Eucalyptus trees are evergreen and common throughout Southern Arizona. There are many varieties available but not all make good trees for home yards because of their growth habits or size.

From the Archives: Smiths’ eucalyptus tree, farmhouse harken back to city’s not-so-distant past

Some eucalyptus trees worth consideration are:

Eucalptus microtheca or Coolibah tree, grows at a moderate rate, up to 35 feet tall and spreads to about the same width. It has 8-inch, silvery gray leaves with a smooth gray bark. This tree can develop iron deficiency but is described as a “nice, quiet, graceful, open-canopied tree.”

GARDEN TIPS
Time to get a jump on growing tomatoes and peppers by starting them inside in peat pots or small pots for growing seedling. Use a mix of 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 coarse vermiculate and 1/3 compost. Place in warm spot until germination occurs then move to full sun or under grow lights. Mist daily for 7-10 days, then when you see sprouts, water less often. When plants have grown 6 inches or so, and there is no danger of frost, it’s time to plant outdoors.

E. sideroxylon or Red Ironbark is a medium tree ranging from 20 to 80 feet, has red to pinkish colored flowers, ribbon like blue green leaves and dark colored thick-furrowed bark.

The Coral Gum or E. torquata grows to about 20 feet tall and about as wide. It has a slender trunk and grows at a moderate rate. This tree is pretty much free of problems.

E. papuana also called the Ghost Gum is another good choice for our warm temperatures. Some forms have more than one trunk. It is a tall tree growing up to 60 feet, but in our area it is usually much shorter. Its spread is about 15 to 30 feet wide. The leaves are 3-5 inches long, colored a leathery gray to green.

Eucalyptus trees are biologically remarkable. Oil extracted from leaves and gum produced by the trees contains compounds that are powerful natural insect repellants, protecting the trees from insect damage.

Questions?
Contact a Master Gardener volunteer 520-374-6263
MACMasterGardener@gmail.com
MAC-Pinal-MasterGardener.org


Betty Beeman is a Maricopa resident and Pinal County Master Gardener.

MARK YOUR CALENDAR
Yearly plant sale at the Maricopa Agricultural Center, March 4, 8 a.m.-noon. Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, herbs, shrubs, trees and more will be available for purchase. Rick Gibson, Pinal County University of Arizona Extension Agent, has several gardening videos on YouTube. Check these out.

Date Palm (Jebulon/Creative Commons)

By Betty Beeman

Betty Beeman
Betty Beeman

Palms are not native to Arizona but they are found all over the Valley – Palm Valley Golf Club in Goodyear, Mission Palms Hotel in Tempe, Royal Palms Resort in Phoenix and the campus of Arizona State University – the list goes on and on.

Palms are planted in groves, clumps or as single specimens for accent or background planting around swimming pools, patios, and in the garden wherever a bold effect is desired. The slow growing and dwarf species can be planted in tubs or planters.

Some of the hardiest palm species for this area are California fan (50 feet), Mediterranean fan, a multi-trunked palm (10-15 feet), windmill fan (25 feet), Canary Island date (40 feet) and Mexican blue (70 feet).

The choice of which one to purchase and plant can be intimidating. However, you can narrow down your selection by considering the following:

■ How big it will be at maturity, and its location (watch out for power lines at your site).
■ Will it overpower the home? I have seen palms planted close to foundations. This may look good but it can cause problems as it grows. It can be costly when you have to call in a person to take it out. So don’t plant that cute little 5-gallon palm near anything it can overtake such as your house and garden.

December Gardening Tip
Transplant: chard, celery, broccoli, asparagus, kohlrabi


1. Planting
Take care to avoid planting in frost pockets, where nighttime cold air tends to collect. Palms are most sensitive to cold as small plants. As the tree approaches maturity it can withstand low temperatures with less injury.

The best time for planting is during warm weather when root growth is most active. Soil temperatures above 65 degrees aid in root establishment. The preferred time to plant is late spring to early summer.
A well drained soil will promote growth.

Caliche, hardpan or compacted soil layers prevent good soil drainage. To test for drainage, fill hole with water, allow to drain and fill a second time. If second filling does not drain within 24 hours find another location or dig a chimney down to a porous strata to permit excess irrigation water to drain from hole.

Do not amend the backfill with manure or organic material. This will result in the palm sinking into the hole. Dig the hole as deep as the root ball and 2 feet wider on each side. Seat the crown of the container palm at the original soil level. Do not cover the crown or young trunk with soil. New roots will emerge both above and below the root ball. Settle the backfill with water from a hose.

Mediterranean fan palm (Tato Grasso)
Mediterranean fan palm (Tato Grasso)

2. Watering & Feeding
Water thoroughly at planting time. Make a berm above grade about 2 feet out from the trunk so that a slow soak from hose or bubbler can gradually fill it and saturate the root zone. Palms set out in warm weather will probably need to be watered every day the first two weeks. Check moisture content in the root ball to determine moisture. The goal is to keep the root ball moist but not soggy wet.

As roots begin to grow out and draw moisture from a greater distance, irrigation can be spaced farther apart, from every day the first two weeks to once every seven days. Use probe (piece of rebar or a long screw driver) to test for moisture depth. The goal is to water to a depth of 2 feet. Spread a layer of mulch 2-4 inches deep to conserve moisture and reduce soil temperature. Established palms do well on slow irrigation to a depth of 2 feet every two weeks.

Fertilize with palm fertilizer according to package directions twice a year.

Questions? Contact a Master Gardener volunteer
520-374-6263
MACMasterGardener@gmail.com


This column appears in the December issue of InMaricopa.

Citrus is one of Arizona’s five C’s with a history in the state dating back to the 1700s. Submitted

By Betty Beeman

Betty Beeman
Betty Beeman

Oranges have been a key element in the developing history of Arizona.

Father Eusebio Kino, a missionary from Mexico, reportedly introduced oranges to Arizona in 1707. As Arizona grew with settlers, so did the demand for citrus, primarily oranges and grapefruit.

By 1970 farmers were growing approximately 80,000 acres of citrus in the state. Over time, citrus orchards have mostly been replaced with urban development. However, Yuma County maintains many citrus orchards at present.

Mandarin, navel and Valencia oranges are three of the most popular of the many kinds of citrus available. They have excellent flavor and are mild to the taste and can be eaten or juiced. Some have many seeds, some are hard to peel and some are more tart. The choice is almost overwhelming when you add grapefruits, lemons, limes, tangerines, kumquats and tangelos.

It would help if you could attend a tasting session before purchasing. Greenfield Nursery, in Mesa, has one scheduled Jan. 21. Call for information at 480-830-8000.

In selecting a tree, the trunk should be straight and the tree should support itself without a stake. If at all possible select one with no fruit because you want the energy to go into making new roots rather than making fruit the first year as it adapts to your environment. You can also remove any fruit at time of planting.

Late summer and early fall is a great time to plant citrus because it gives them time to establish a good root system before cold freezing weather comes. You will need to protect your citrus. There are several ways to do this.

Usually straw mulch, cloth covers and even plastic sheeting will protect the tree, because you can lose them to freezing temperatures. My orange and grapefruit trees are about 10 years old, and I do not have to cover them since they are well established.

When choosing your planting site be sure and dig the hole first (twice the size of the rootball or 2 feet wide 2 feet deep), fill with water twice and check for drainage. If the water has not soaked into the ground overnight, pick another site.

TIPS
* October is a great month to do your planting. The nurseries are loaded with container-grown plants. Plant artichokes, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, garlic, peas, radishes.
* Right time to divide perennials
* Time to sow wild flowers


Planting the proper depth is very important. Plant too low and the trunk stays wet, encouraging diseases. Plant too high and the rootball will dry out to quickly. If you are unsure, ask the nursery person for advice.

Watering is extremely important. More people kill their trees with too much water rather than too little. Newly planted trees should be watered every seven to 10 days April through September. In the winter, November through February, water every 3-4 weeks, and more often in the summer, of course. You will find watering charts at www.azcitrus.com or www.greenfieldcitrus.com.

Slow, deep watering is the best. Ideally you want to go two to three feet deep. If in doubt, dig down six inches in the soil and feel the soil or get yourself a moisture meter (less than $10). Keep in mind all trees need one to two years to recover from transplanting shock.

Homeowners find citrus is fairly easy to grow and with over 30 varieties to choose from the choice can become very complicated. Citrus trees live long and grow to about 16 feet with a 6-7 foot diameter. They rarely need pruning; they stay green all year and will produce fruit for many years with careful watering and fertilizing.

Questions for Master Gardener volunteers
520 374-6263
MACMasterGardener@gmail.com
MAC-Pinal-MasterGardener.org

Betty Beeman is a resident of Maricopa and a Pinal County Master Gardener.


This column appears in the October issue of InMaricopa.

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The desert willow offers shade and color and has no thorns. Submitted photo

By Betty Beeman

This is the time of year we would be grateful for some shade in our yards. Consider planting one or two hardy desert trees that will give you pleasant results next year.

MARICOPA GARDENING TIPS
•    Fertilize Bermuda grass lawns with nitrogen according to directions on the package.
•    Apply one inch of water per week to Bermuda lawns.
•    Raise the mowing height to 2.5 to 3 inches.
•    Good time to plant bougainvillea, yellow bells, oleanders, acacias, mesquites and palo verdes. During their first few weeks they will need daily watering.
•    End of August, plant seed for fall vegetables: Snap beans, bok choy, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, collard greens, corn, leeks and kale.

There is more to picking the right tree than low-water consumption, rapid growth or frost tolerance. Other important considerations are the ultimate size, shape, leaf style and color. It’s hard to visualize what a five-gallon or a 15-gallon plant will look like when it reaches maturity.

Some other questions you need to ask yourself are:
•    What will be under it, over it and around it?
•    Do you want multiple branches and low limbs?
•    Do you want to screen out ugly views?
•    Are you willing to put up with thorns?
•    Do you need something around your pool?
•    Does your homeowners association have restrictions of certain trees?

Answers to these questions will help you make the right choices. I have been told by a Realtor that a mature desert tree will increase your property value by $500 to $1,000.

Popular varieties of palo verde, acacias and mesquite are obtainable at nurseries or plant sales. Other choices are also available, such as fruitless olive, ironwood, Texas ebony, anacacho orchid tree or the Mediterranean fan palm.

My personal favorite is the desert willow. It has beautiful light or dark purple flowers, provides filtered shade and can be grown as a bush or a tree that can reach 20 feet in height. No thorns.

As an added benefit, trees can help decrease heating and cooling costs for your home. Locate deciduous trees to shade the east- and west-facing exposures of your home during the summer. This will allow sunlight into the home during the winter when branches are bare of leaves.

Shade trees require occasional feeding and pruning as part of maintenance. Raking can be labor-intensive because shade trees produce a lot of leaves. Some have thorns that can be up to an inch long. Native trees also provide food, cover and nesting material for wildlife.

The Desert Botanical Gardens in Phoenix and in Tucson are living museums for desert plants. There, you can visit and see how the trees you are considering planting will look at maturity. Careful selection can ensure that the trees blend well with the overall design of the surrounding landscape.

You can also drive around your neighborhood, look at various nurseries or research on the Internet. A little preplanning can be of great benefit.

Plant Selection Tips: AMWUA.org

Questions?
Contact a Master Gardener volunteer:
520-374-6263
MACMasterGardener@gmail.com
MAC-Pinal-MasterGardener.org

Betty Beeman is a Maricopa resident and a Pinal County Master Gardener.


This column appears in the August issue of InMaricopa.

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Constructed shade cover can protect plants from Maricopa's harsh summer sun. Submitted photo

By Betty Beeman

Betty Beeman
Betty Beeman

June and July are difficult months for gardeners because of the long days, high temperatures and low humidity. It’s important to monitor water at this time because inadequate water management is the number one cause of landscape death. If your garden soil is sandy, you will have to irrigate more frequently than if your soil is silt or clay.

Sunburned bark is indication of heat stress. The bark of tender plants like citrus and mulberry are often damaged by direct sun and heat. The damage shows up on the southwest side of the tree trunk and on exposed branches. The bark usually peels off in large pieces leaving huge wounds in the trunk.

Unfortunately, it is this damage that contains the tubes that conducts food energy from the roots to the leaves and the leaves to the roots

To ensure the entire root zone gets wet during irrigation, water needs to penetrate the soil at least three feet for trees. For shrubs the soil should be wetted to two feet and for shallow-rooted bedding plants, one foot. After irrigation you can check the depth penetration using a long screw driver or a three-foot piece of rebar pushed down into the soil.

Another way to check your soil is to dig down six inches with a garden trowel, take a handful of soil and squeeze and release. If the soil leaves a wet outline on your hand and forms a nice compacted ball you know you do not need water. If the soil forms a weak crumbly ball you know it’s time to water.

Failure to fill the entire root zone each time you water will cause the lower roots to dry out and the plant will begin to suffer. Irrigate often enough to keep moisture in the soil and not so often that the soil stays sloppy wet.

You might consider some type of shade cover for your plants for their protection. This is especially true for newly planted trees in their first year.

We strive to find a balance between keeping plants healthy and saving water. Violate a plants’ basic need for water and it will simply not survive in our harsh environment.

Betty Beeman is a Maricopa resident and Pinal County Master Gardner.


This column appeared in the July issue of InMaricopa.

Tips

  • Mulch 3-4 inches deep with wood chips to retain moisture around plants/trees
  • Never use hot water from a hose. Let water run until it cools off first before watering your plants.
  • Plants in containers are the same temperature as your outside temperature, so shade and water are important. Plants in the ground are ten to fifteen degrees cooler.
  • Early morning watering is best because evaporation is much less.
  • Good time to plant palm trees, pumpkin, winter squash, gourds, marigolds, sunflowers. Google “Phoenix Gardening Calendar” for more information.

 

QUESTIONS?

Contact a Master Gardener volunteer:

520-374-6263

macmasatergardener@gmail.com

mac-pinal-mastergardener.org.

 

Betty Beeman

By Betty Beeman

Many new residents are moving into Maricopa and are used to growing in home states where you just plant something and it grows. They often find Arizona, with its hard-packed and deficient soil, a challenge to grow healthy plants. But once you figure out the rules for Arizona soil, weather and water, you can begin to enjoy growing trees and plants.

Many people begin their garden experience with a raised bed or containers. There is a lot of information on the Internet on how to construct a raised bed. Google “How to build a raised bed,” and many ideas will come up.

One of our Master Gardeners grows herbs in old wheel barrows her husband salvages from his work site. She drills holes in the bottom, puts in planting soil, sets up a drip system and is successful with mint, basil, rosemary, oregano and chives.

She also grows in discarded stock tanks and even has an old bathtub she grows tomatoes in.

Next month, I will cover what it takes to have good soil for healthy plants. If you have questions, call the Master Gardener office at 520-374-6263 or email MACMasterGardener@gmail.com. The Master Gardener Office is at the Maricopa Agricultural Center (MAC), 37860 W. Smith-Enke Road.

Betty Beeman is a resident of Maricopa and a Pinal County Master Gardener.


This column appeared in the May issue of InMaricopa.

Master Gardener 101
The state of Washington was the first to start a Master Gardener volunteer program in the early 1970s. It was so successful other states began to establish programs of their own through state colleges and universities. The University of Arizona cooperative Extension established a Master Gardener program in Pinal County in 1982.
Rick Gibson, U of A agricultural extension agent and the director of the cooperative extension program, is responsible for all of Pinal County. As part of his many duties he oversees six Master Gardener programs while teaching many of the classes in the MG program. He also advises and works closely with local farmers on various issues.
To be a Master Gardener, you must complete a 15-week training program (three hours once a week) and pass the certifying exam (multiple-choice questions). You are required 50 hours of volunteer service during the first year and then 25 hours every year after, plus six hours of educational credits to maintain your MG status.
We welcome you to join our beginning class in September. We never stop learning, whether it is sharing knowledge with someone or educating ourselves.